Keeping Watch

Just before the holidays a friend looking to make clothing in China under fair labor conditions received this note from a sympathetic Chinese sourcing agent:

"The factories we're dealing with are not that kind of factory. The owners don't expect someone to keep watch on workers rights and interests. That is the real situation all over China. Merry Christmas!"

Aside from the amusing juxtaposition of bad news and holiday wishes, this email struck me as a painfully realistic expression of the state of anti-sweatshop work. We can find factories that treat workers fairly, but we generally have to overcome the disinterest -- and opposition -- of factory management and supervisers.  We can advocate for stronger action by brands and buyers, but also must recognize that poor working conditons are a social phenomenon, caused by factors generally outside the control of individual companies.  We can criticize factories for poor performance, but must see that their disrespect for labor rights is in many ways rational given the business context in which they operate.
So what is to be done? 
There is ample room for action by everyone involved in supply chains.
1. companies need to begin to assess the impact of their anti-sweatshop efforts.  They should undertake evaluations of the success and failure of individual programs (like social auditing) and expenditures (like staffing and supplier training). 
2. governments need to strengthen enforcement of labor rights. This means a multi-faceted agenda of removing political obstacles, building more effective inspection regimes, and recognizing the 'business case' of improved labor rights. 
3. rights advocates need to recognize the positive steps that companies take, including providing positive incentives to encourage other companies to move forward.

In the next few weeks Verite will be releasing several public reports addressing these areas of action.  The first -- Verite Well Made -- redefines what should be expected of companies by focusing 'supply chain compliance' efforts on indicators of impact for workers.  The second -- the State of the Working World -- identifies what the operating context looks like, highlighting systemic strengths and weaknesses in government protection of labor rights.

There's ample work to be done.  These two programs aim to define an agenda for action.  We look forward to your feedback.